Saturday, October 8, 2011

Due South or Cuba Past and Present

Ballou, Maturin M., Due South or Cuba Past and Present, Boston and New York: Houghton, Mifflin and Company, 1885. [pages are readable but have come loose from the bind]

Maturin Murray Ballou (April 14, 1820 – March 27, 1895) was a writer and publisher in 19th-century Boston, Massachusetts. He co-founded Gleason's Pictorial; was the first editor of the Boston Daily Globe; and wrote numerous travel books and works of popular fiction. (...) In the 1880s and 1890s, Ballou authored several travel books, covering Alaska, Russia, Cuba, India, South America, Australia, Tasmania, New Zealand, Samoa, and elsewhere. In 1882 he "circumnavigated the globe." [9] In 1885-1886, Ballou was a proprietor of the Boston Athenaeum.[10] Ballou died on March 27, 1895, in Cairo, Egypt, where he had been with his wife since January 1895.[11] He is buried in Boston.


PREFACE
The public favor accorded to a late volume by the author of these pages, entitled “Due West; or Round theWorld in Ten Months,” has suggested both the publication and the title of the volume in hand, which consistsof notes of a voyage to the tropics, and a sojourn in Cuba during the last winter. The endeavor has been topresent a comprehensive view of the island, past and present, and to depict the political and moral darknesswhich have so long enshrouded it. A view of its interesting inhabitants, with a glance at its beautiful flora andvegetation generally, has been a source of such hearty enjoyment to the author that he desires to share thepleasure with the appreciative reader. The great importance of the geographical position of the island, itspresent critical condition, and the proposed treaty of commerce with this country, together render it at presentof unusual interest in the eyes of the world. If possible, Cuba is more Castilian than peninsular Spain, andboth are so Moorish as to present a fascinating study of national characteristics.M. M. B.

CONTENTS:
CHAPTER I. Departure. —On Board Ship. —Arrival at Nassau. —Capital of the Bahamas. —Climate. —Soil. —Fruits and Flowers.—Magic Fertility. —Colored Population. —The Blockade Runners. —Population. —Products. —A Picturesque Local Scene. —Superstition. —Fish Story. —The Silk−CottonTree. —Remarkable Vegetation. —The Sea Gardens. —Marine Animal Life. —The Bahama Banks. —Burial at Sea. —Venal Officials. —Historical Characters. —The Early Buccaneers.—Diving for Drinking−Water.
CHAPTER II. Among the Islands. —San Salvador. —A Glimpse at theStars. —Hayti. —The Gulf Stream. —The Caribbean Sea. —Latitude and Longitude. —The Southern Coast of Cuba. —A Famous Old Fortress. —Fate of Political Prisoners. —TheOldest City in Cuba. —The Aborigines. —Cuban Cathedrals.—Drinking Saloons. —Dogs, Horses, and Coolies. —Scenesin Santiago de Cuba. —Devoured by Sharks. —Lying atAnchor. —Wreck of a Historic Ship. —Cuban Circulating Medium. —Tropical Temperature.
CHAPTER III. Doubling Cape Cruz. —Trinidad. —Cienfuegos. —The Plaza.—Beggars. —Visit to a Sugar Plantation. —Something about Sugar. —An Original Character. —A Tropical FruitGarden. —Cuban Hospitality. —The Banana. —LotteryTickets. —Chinese Coolies. —Blindness in Cuba. —Birdsand Poultry. —The Cock−Pit. —Negro Slavery, To−Day. —Spanish Slaveholders. —A Slave Mutiny. —A Pleasant Journey across the Island. —Pictures of the Interior. —Scenery about Matanzas. —The Tropics and the Northcontrasted.
CHAPTER IV. The Great Genoese Pilot. —Discovery of Cuba. —Its VariousNames. —Treatment of the Natives. —Tobacco! —Flora ofthe Island. —Strange Idols. —Antiquity. —Habits of theAborigines. —Remarkable Speech of an Indian King. —ANative Entertainment. —Paying Tribute. —Ancient Remains.—Wrong Impression of Columbus. —First Attempt atColonization. —Battle with the Indians. —First Governorof Cuba. —Founding Cities. —Emigration from Spain. —Conquest of Mexico.
CHAPTER V. Baracoa, the First Capital. —West Indian Buccaneers. —Military Despotism. —A Perpetual State of Siege. —A Patriotic Son of Cuba. —Political Condition of the Island.—Education of Cuban Youths. —Attempts at Revolution. —Fate of General Narciso Lopez. —The Late Civil War and its Leader. —Terrible Slaughter of Spanish Troops. —Stronghold of the Insurgents. —Guerrillas. —Want ofSelf−Reliance. —Spanish Art, Literature, and Conquest. —What Spain was. —What Spain is. —Rise and Fall of an Empire.
CHAPTER VI.Geographical. —A Remarkable Weed. —Turtle−Hunting. —Turtle−Steaks in Olden Times. —The Gulf Stream. —Deep−Sea Soundings. —Mountain Range of Cuba. —Curious Geological Facts. —Subterranean Caverns. —Wild Animals. —TheRivers of the Island. —Fine Harbors. —Historic Memories of the Caribbean Sea. —Sentinel of the Gulf. —Importance of the Position. —Climate. —Hints for Invalids. —Matanzas. —Execution of a Patriot. —Valley of Yumuri; Caves of Bellamar; Puerto Principe; Cardenas.
CHAPTER VII. City of Havana. —First Impressions. —The Harbor. —Institutions. —Lack of Educational Facilities. —Cuban Women. —Street Etiquette. —Architecture. —Domestic Arrangements. —Barred Windows and Bullet−Proof Doors. —Public Vehicles. —Uncleanliness of the Streets. —Spanishor African! —The Church Bells. —Home−Keeping Habits of Ladies. —Their Patriotism. —Personal Characteristics. —Low Ebb of Social Life. —Priest craft. —Female Virtue. —Domestic Ties. —A Festive Population. —Cosmetics. —Sea−Bathing.
CHAPTER VIII.Sabbath Scenes in Havana. —Thimble−Riggers and Mountebanks.—City Squares and their Ornamentation. —The Cathedral. —Tomb of Columbus. —Plaza de Armas. —Out−Door Concerts. —Habitués of Paseo de Isabella. —Superbly Appointed Cafés.—Gambling. —Lottery Tickets. —Fast Life. —Masquerade Balls. —Carnival Days. —The Famous Tacon Theatre. —The Havana Casino. —Public Statues. —Beauties of theGovernor's Garden. —The Alameda. —The Old Bell−Ringer. —Military Mass.
CHAPTER IX. Political Inquisition. —Fashionable Streets of the City. —Tradesmen's Signs. —Bankrupt Condition of Traders. —The Spanish Army. —Exiled Patriots. —Arrival of Recruits. —The Garrote. —A Military Execution. —Cuban Milk Dealers.—Exposure of Domestic Life. —Living in the Open Air. —The Campo Santo of Havana. —A Funeral Cortége. —PunishingSlaves. —Campo de Marte. —Hotel Telegrafo. —Environs ofthe City. —Bishop's Garden. —Consul−General Williams. —Mineral Springs.
CHAPTER X.The Fish−Market of Havana. —The Dying Dolphin. —Tax uponthe Trade. —Extraordinary Monopoly. —Harbor Boats. —AStory about Marti, the Ex−Smuggler. —King of the Isle ofPines. —The Offered Reward. —Sentinels in the Plaza deArmas. —The Governor−General and the Intruder. —“I am Captain Marti!” —The Betrayal. —The Ex−Smuggler as Pilot.—The Pardon and the Reward. —Tacon's Stewardship and Official Career. —Monopoly of Theatricals. —A Negro Festival.
CHAPTER XI. The Havana Lottery. —Its Influence. —Hospitality of theCubans. —About Bonnets. —The Creole Lady's Face. —Love of Flowers. —An Atmospheric Narcotic. —The Treacherous Indian Fig. —How the Cocoanut is propagated. —Cost ofLiving in Cuba. —Spurious Liquors. —A Pleasant Health Resort. —The Cock−Pit. —Game−Birds. —Their Management.—A Cuban Cock−Fight. —Garden of the World. —AboutBirds. —Stewed Owl! —Slaughter of the Innocents. —The Various Fruits.
CHAPTER XII.Traveling by Volante. —Want of Inland Communication. —Americans Profitable Customers. —The Cruel National Game.—The Plaza de Toros. —Description of a Bull−Fight. —TheInfection of Cruelty. —The Romans and Spaniards compared.—Cry of the Spanish Mob: “Bread and Bulls!” —Women at theFight. —The Nobility of the Island. —The Monteros. —Ignorance of the Common People. —Scenes in the CentralMarket, Havana. —Odd Ideas of Cuban Beggars. —An Original Style of Dude. —A Mendicant Prince.
CHAPTER XIII.Introduction of Sugar−Cane. —Sugar Plantations. —Mode ofManufacture. —Slaves on the Plantations. —African Amusements. —The Grinding Season. —The CoffeePlantations. —A Floral Paradise. —Refugees from SanDomingo. —Interesting Experiments with a Mimosa. —Three Staple Productions of Cuba. —Raising Coffee and Tobacco. —Best Soils for the Tobacco. —Agricultural Possibilities. —The Cuban Fire−Fly. —A Much−Dreaded Insect. —The Ceiba Tree. —About Horses and Oxen.
CHAPTER XIV. Consumption of Tobacco. —The Delicious Fruits of theTropics. —Individual Characteristics of Cuban Fruits. —The Royal Palm. —The Mulberry Tree. —Silk Culture. —TheIsland once covered by Forests. —No Poisonous Reptiles. —The Cuban Bloodhound. —Hotbed of African Slavery. —Spain's Disregard of Solemn Treaties. —The Coolie System of Slavery. —Ah−Lee draws a Prize. —Native African Races. —Negroes buying their Freedom. —Laws favoring the Slaves. —Example of San Domingo. —General Emancipation.
CHAPTER XV. Slave Trade with Africa. —Where the Slavers made theirLanding. —An Early Morning Ride. —Slaves marching to Daily Labor. —Fragrance of the Early Day. —Mist upon the Waters. —A Slave Ship. —A Beautiful but Guilty Brigantine. —A French Cruiser. —Cunning Seamanship. —AWild Goose Chase. —A Cuban Posada. —Visit to a CoffeeEstate. —Landing a Slave Cargo. —A Sight to challenge Sympathy and Indignation. —Half−Starved Victims. —Destruction of the Slave Ship.
CHAPTER XVI.Antique Appearance of Everything. —The Yeomen of Cuba. —A Montero's Home. —Personal Experience. —The Soil of theIsland. —Oppression by the Government. —Spanish Justice in Havana. —Tax upon the Necessities of Life. —The Proposed Treaty with Spain. —A One−Sided Proposition. —AMuch Taxed People. —Some of the Items of Taxation. —Fraudand Bankruptcy. —The Boasted Strength of Moro Castle. —Destiny of Cuba. —A Heavy Annual Cost to Spain. —Political Condition. —Pictures of Memory.


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